22 September 2017

BathCon 2018

After the success of BatchCon 2017, I wanted to make a post about the plan for next years event.

So, planning is now firmly underway for next years day of wargaming goodness! BathCon 2017 focused largely (well, entirely!) on the sci-fi side of gaming with X-Wing, Shadow War: Armageddon and Warhammer 40,000 being what we played, next years event will take a more fantasy-focused theme. Blood Bowl, Gorechosen, ShadeSpire and Age of Sigmar will be systems we focus on.

Both I and my long-term hobby boyfriend (known as Bob) are going to focus on Age of Sigmar armies over the coming months. We will be visiting Warhammer World for a weekend of gaming at the end of April. This will be split between 40k and AoS so we need to get some armies built and painted! I will be working to paint up 1000 points of Sylvaneth whilst Bob will be working on the same point value of Khorne Bloodbound. Obviously, the benefit of this is that, for BathCon 2018, we will have 2 suitable armies to game with. I also have a small force of Stormcast Eternals and Nurgle Daemons whereas Bob has Khorne and Nurgle Daemons as well… so there will be plenty for us to use!

We also will likely dabble in some Blood Bowl seeing as I have fully painted Orc and Human teams and one of this year's guest has metal Skaven and High Elf teams which I’m sure he’ll look forward to dusting off. Blood Bowl can take a long time to play so I suspect we will limit the time dedicated to this game to one-half of a match.

Alongside these games, Bob has picked up Gorechosen and this would be a perfect event to roll out the 4 player game of blood, guts and decapitations! Bob is also pondering picking up Warhammer Quest Silver Tower so that may also find its way onto the order of play!

Finally, there’s ShadeSpire. At the time of writing, this is an unreleased game but both Bob and I will be picking it upon release.

One last thing to mention… Some of these games will require a suitable board to play on! Having spent the last 7-8 months preparing a good 40k board, it looks like 2018 will see my focus shift on to preparing a fantasy style board. More on this soon!

18 September 2017

Finding Your Style!

Throughout 2017, whilst I've been working on scenery for BathCon 2017, I've spent a lot of time experimenting with various painting techniques trying to find methods of painting which fit with my hobby goals, style and ability. In short, the goal has been to find a technique which takes advantage of an airbrush, is quick to apply and which yields good results. I'm pleased to write that I think I've found the right combination of techniques to achieve my goal! This post covers how I've got to this monumental moment :)


So, I've had my airbrush for nearly 4 years. 2017 is the year I finally got to grips with it as a tool. In the past, I always found that the cleaning and maintenance put too much of an overhead on the benefits I reaped from its use. Enter stage left a glass full of water! This very simple addition to my Airbrush regime has made all the difference! Whenever I finish using my airbrush I wash it out in the sink and then simply place it in the cup of water... sometimes for weeks in between use. This ensures that there is never any dried paint to clean out before use and allows for much quicker applications of paint when required.

As a benefit of this, I also cracked the method for preparing paints for use with the Airbrush. You need thin paints! Almost all of my paints are GW. I like the clearly defined painting system they employ in regards to base coats and their matching layer paints. The downside of this is that I need to water down the paints before use in the airbrush. I've found that a suitable mix of paint, water and Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver make it very easy to dilute the paint enough to work through the  airbrush without any problem.


Now on to the big one! Shading has been the area of the process which has involved most experimentation, failure and therefore required most thought to nail.

Shading is a very important step in painting a miniature and I have been on a mission to find a suitable method of applying a wash which is quick, gives awesome results and most importantly doesn't result in a need to reapply base paints to tidy up the shade. Not only is such an action a waste of time it is also very challenging to adequately reapply base paints when they have been airbrushed and so are likely part of a transition. I realise that applying a targeted ‘pin’ wash would solve this but that option would take too much time so wasn’t an option.

Initially, I attempted to follow the method recommended by the top dawg, Kenny Boucher, of Next Level Painting. Kenny’s recommended method involved coating the model in gloss varnish and then using a gloss Nuln Oil or Agrax Earthshade wash. The combination of the gloss varnish and gloss shade ensure that the surface tension of the wash is maintained and drastically reduced any ‘coffee staining’ which can occur. I initially found this method to give positive results: I used in on a Blood Angels Tactical Squad early on in the year, however, some coffee staining did occur. Later, when using this method I encountered some issues when the wash seemingly dissolved the gloss varnish coat. This had some very problematic results for the Shadow War: Armageddon terrain I posted about back in June. It's worth noting though that I don’t think this was due to the wash/technique… more I’d either applied the gloss varnish to thinly or that I hadn’t left it long enough to dry (or both!).

As I appear to be covering this in chronological order, next up, during the summer I was listening to an episode of the fantastic Sons of Heresy podcast and the hosts mentioned following a shading technique they learnt during a seminar at a Horus Heresy event. After a quick YouTube search, a video of a chap called Mark Bedford who works at ForgeWorld revealed not only the secrets of how to apply a great wash but also how to follow a quick painting process to get your models on the board. I’ve included it below as it’s a fantastic video and well worth a watch, but the section which stood out for me revolved around his wash mixture… and how he applies the wash as the last stage of painting a miniature.

Andy’s wash mixture stood out as it seemed to promise the answer to the coffee staining problem. Essentially one mixes 1 part Nuln Oil, 1 part Seraphin Sepia, 1 part Lahmain Medium and 3 parts water to produce a subtle wash mixture; applied after a coat of gloss varnish. I tried this mix on 3 of the GW Objective Markers which were released along with 8th Edition. The washes worked fantastically aside from white residue which appeared in the areas where the wash had pooled the most. Upon investigation, it appears that this is due to the water element of the wash. Diluting GW washes with water is a huge no-no!

Base - Highlight - Shade

Following on from unlocking the ultimate shade formula I'd like to cover the idea of base coating, then highlighting and finally shading. This is, of course, different from the GW painting system of Base - Shade - Highlight! I feel that if one chooses to use an airbrush as the primary method to apply base coats and use gradual transitions for highlight (and also some shadows), following the traditional process causes issues as maintaining the transitions is difficult. Alternatively, if one can apply the highlight before shading the model... and the shade doesn't cause any coffee staining, that's ideal!

The trick is to highlight the model to '11' in preparation for the colour muting down. Whilst painting many of the large GW bits of scenery I've worked on, namely the Sector Mechanicum (Shadow War: Armageddon terrain), I noticed how the final colour of the terrain was always coming out darker than I desired. There were two reasons for this, 1) that the airbrush layers became less vibrant when dry and 2) as already indicated, the wash when applied also reduced the vibrancy of the colour. On some of the later pieces of scenery, I got used to highlighting the model to '11' in preparation for the toning back of the colours and found that it works perfectly! The bonus is that applying the shade last means your models look suitably muted and 'realistic' (as opposed to a cartoony look).

Pulling it all together

When painting my most recent model, Sly Marbo, I took the opportunity to bring together all the lessons learnt (mentioned above!). The shade was mixed up using 1 part Nuln Oil, 1 part Seraphin Sepia and 4 parts Lahmain Medium (essentially replacing the water element from Andy Bedford's mix with an increased amount of Lahmain Medium. Happily, it worked a treat and in conjunction with all my learning, he looks great!

In conclusion, I feel like my understanding of painting has increased a lot this year. My abilities with a paint brush (or airbrush) may not be top drawer but what skill I do have, combined with the techniques I’ve mentioned in this post, should mean I’m able to increase my output and for the models to be of a higher quality than I was previously achieving.

The learning never stops though... Next up I will be focusing on my Sylvaneth force. These models will provide a fantastic opportunity to refine the process on some amazing, organic miniatures. I’ve also ordered some Army Painter shades and shade medium as I’ve heard great things about their shades. I will use these to mix a wash along the lines as that mentioned above.

11 September 2017

Sly Marbo: the one man army!

Hot on the heels of BathCon 2017, I've been working on Sly Marbo.

This is an old GW model which I wanted to add to my collection due to his rules as a 'one man army' in Shadow War: Armageddon. I picked him, minus 1 arm and thickly coated in a rather terrible paint job from eBay for about£5! The arm was replaced with one from the Catachan set (again, an eBay purchase). My friend Dan used him (whilst still unpainted) with spectacular results during BathCon 2017.  I will be starting to work on my Sylvaneth and Blood Angels models in preparation for a trip to Warhammer World in April 2018 but I wanted to get this guy painted up before starting those larger projects.

For this model, I used tested out a new process- this involved painting his base coat and highlights before shading. I really enjoyed this process; it was quick and will certainly be the process I now follow for all future models.

I base coated him with Bugmans Glow for the skin, Death World Forest for his vest, Caliban Green for his trousers and Dryad Bark for the pouches. Alongside those main colours, I painted the base with a mix of Mechanicus Standard Grey/Dryad Bark and Screaming Skull for the copper pipes. 

As this guy is a 'one man army' in the context of how I will use him, I wanted to add a more detailed base. The base used here was taken from the Warhammer 40K basing kit which was glued to the top of a 25mm base.  

Each colour was then highlighted using the recommended colours from the Citadel Painting System chart. Once complete the whole model was coated in gloss varnish in preparation for the wash.

The final steps involved shading the model using a mix of Nuln Oil/Reikland Fleshshade/Lahmain Medium. After that was dry I added Nihilakh Oxide/Nurgle's Rot to the pipes and a wash of Beil-Tan green to the lower half of the knife. Finally, a couple of thin coats of matte varnish were airbrushed on to the model to matte down and protect the miniature.

In conclusion, I am very happy with how he has come out. The new process, combined with the use of more delicate washes (diluted with Lahmain Medium) has allowed me to quickly paint this model to a good standard. As is always the case, I try and take learning forward... onwards to Tree Folk and the Sons of Sanguinius!

9 September 2017

BathCon 2017

BathCon 2017 was the wargaming day I've planned since the beginning of this year. On the weekend of 2nd September, I hosted 3 friends for a full day of X-Wing, Shadow War: Armageddon and Warhammer 40,000... and then some Poker!

Since I organised the event it has been the sole focus of my hobbying time. My goal was to get into a position where I could present a gaming table full of painted terrain and where possible fully painted models. Whilst achieving all the goals I set myself was impossible, I was able to prepare all the scenery pieces I wanted to paint. With one of the game on the roster being Shadow War: Armageddon this was no small feat!

Prior to the event, I ran a roll to determine which game systems my guests would like to play. the 3 winners were X-Wing, Shadow War: Armageddon and Warhammer 40k. The two games which lost out were Age of Sigmar and Blood Bowl.  

So, here are some of the photos from the day...

The Board

This is the board set up prior to the event. Whilst I made posts on this blog covering some of the pieces of terrain used, I didn't post about them all. Over the coming weeks, I will probably catch up with such posts as I learnt a lot from my experiences and would like to share that information.


To kick things off we played 2 games of X-Wing. It's been about 18 months since I last played and had forgotten how much fun it can be! I played a simple 50 point match whilst the other game involved a few more models on each side(as can be seen in the picture below).

Shadow War: Armageddon

We chose to play a 4 player battle in SWA, so 1v1v1v1... which turned out to be a lot of fun! We played it on the full 6v4 table packed full of terrain. It took 3 hours.. which is a bit longer than most SWA battles are supposed to last but it was hugely entertaining. We had Orks v Chaos Marines v Space Marine Scouts v Sly Marbo! the Orks and Chaos Marines spent most of the battle trying to tickle each other to death in combat whilst Sly Marbo did some cheeky stabby-stabby moves with his poisoned knife. The less said about the Space Marine Scouts the better!

Warhammer 40,000

Finally, we played some 40k. a 50 power level battle. Chaos v Space Marines/Blood Angels. Unfortunately, we ran out of time and only managed 1 turn each before having to call it a day.

25 August 2017

Checkin' In

So I haven't made a post in a few weeks. That's not to say that I've not been working on anything; on the contrary! Next week I am hosting a small gaming event and so it's all hands on deck trying to complete as many models/pieces of terrain as possible.

During this final week of preparation, I'm working on some small pieces of terrain. These will be either objective markers or just general battlefield details.

Currently, these models have all been base coated and highlighted via the airbrush. I've also used a mix of Chaos Black/Dryad Bark to sponge on some paint chips. They were then given a couple of coats of gloss varnish.

Next up I will apply the wash, weathering and final details like rust etc.

10 July 2017

Battlefield Furniture Terrain

A quick win this week: I knocked out a set of resin battlefield furniture!

Aside from the pillow on the bunk bed, these pieces were all painted in the same colour as to not distract whilst on the board.

Initially, these pieces were primed with Vallejo Black Primer. They were then base coated with Mechanicus Standard Grey; after which I airbrushed various lighter shades by adding increasing amounts of White Scar to the Mechanicus Standard Grey.

I then used a sponge to apply a 50/50 mix of Chaos Black and Dryad Bark lightly around the harder edges of the models. The models were then sealed with a couple of coats of Gloss Varnish.

Burnt Umber and Black oil paint was thinned with white spirit and used as washes. After the wash had been given some time to try, white spirit was used to manipulate the wash and clear any residue from the flat panels.

The models were then coated with matte varnish to reduce the impact of the gloss varnish and to protect the paint.

As these are relatively incidental pieces of terrain I didn't want to spent too much time on them and thus chose not to paint any details. Next up is the walkway section of the Shadow War Armageddon scenery.

3 July 2017


This set was a purchase made at Salute this year. It's a simple MDF terrain pack so was very cheap! They've come out quit well too.

My aim was to paint these in a colour scheme which matched the design of the fences without being too bright or complicated to paint. I chose a heavily weathered dark red scheme which contains large areas where the metal underneath was showing.

The fences were primed with Vallejo Black Primer. Warplock Bronze was then airbrushed over each piece. I wanted to gain further experience with a technique designed for heavily worn metals where the surface layer of paint had been worn away. This is achieved with hair spray! Once the Warlock Bronze was dried I applied a layer of varnish before several layers of cheap supermarket hairspray.

Once the hairspray had dried I airbrushed Khorne Red over each piece. When this had dried I used a damp brush to loosen the paint and hairspray (as its water based) underneath thus exposing the bronze... aka the bear metal. It's at this point I was presented with a slight problem with my choice of colours - the bronze is too similar to the red so it wasn't as evident that the paint had been worn away!

Once I had finished exposing the bronze paint I applied a layer of varnish to seal/protect the paint. Next up I brushed rust coloured weathering pigment into various areas of each fence. Again this proved as a good learning experience of weathering powders. This was then fixed in place with Vallejo Pigment Binder. 

After the Pigment Binder had dried I lightly drybrushed Leadbelcher along the raised edges of each piece to further enhance the appearance that the fences are metal.

Then, to simulate the build up of dust on the model I mixed up a very diluted solution of Steel Legion Drab and earth coloured pigments and applied 2 coats of this along the lower part of each fence.

Finally, I drybrushed Nercon Compound around the exposed (bronze) areas of each fence in order to highlight the worn away paint.

Next up I'll be working on some small pieces of battlefield furniture.

26 June 2017

Shadow War Armageddon Terrain

Following on from last weeks post, I managed to complete this set of Shadow War Armageddon (SWA) terrain.

As previously mentioned, things went a bit wrong after I applied the gloss shade. Whilst these pieces aren't to the standard I was aspiring to achieve, they look 'OK' and will fit into the board I'm putting together nicely.

Following on from where I had reached on the previous post, once I had drybrushed Averland Sunset onto the models to cover up most of the pesky shade which had settled on the panels, I began applying some light highlights to the main colours; Terminatus Stone for the yellow, Ironbreakder for the metal and Evil Sunz Scarlet for the red.

Next, I applied a coat of VallejonSatin Varnish in preparation for further weathering. The first step was to apply some rust coloured pigment to simulate rust on the models. The pigment was then sealed in place with Vallejo Pigment Binder. Granted that this is hard to see on the models however it was a good learning experience on the use of applying rust weathering powders.

After the Pigment Binder had dried (which took overnight!), I mixed up a very diluted solution of Steel Legion Drab and various earth coloured weathering powders. This solution was then applied to the lower areas of the model to simulate built up dust.

Finally, the models were given a coat of Vallejo Matte Varnish.

Next up is a set of fencing I picked up at Salute.

19 June 2017

Shadow War Armageddon Terrain: Work In Progress

This weeks post covers an update of where I am with part of the Shadow War Armageddon (SWA) terrain. 

As you can see, I've split the terrain into groups based on the main primary colour being applied. In this case- Yellow! (Averland Sunset).

First I'd like to cover where the inspiration came from for the colour scheme. There are loads of great example of colour schemes for the SWA terrain which looks fantastic. It was whilst in my local Warhammer store in Bath that I observed how the store manager had painted the new 40k display and loved it! Whilst the exact scheme I am trying to achieve is not exactly the same as those shown in the photos of the display below, it made up my mind that yellow is the way to go.

 So, I started off my priming the terrain with Vallejo Black primer. This was possibly not the best colour to use underneath yellow as it took many, many coats to achieve any kind of decent coverage.

I also experienced a few problems with my airbrush during this stage so the base coat was uneven and rather 'dusty'.

Once the yellow had been built up to a reasonable level I moved on to painting the details. I picked out various details with Mephiston Red and Leadbelcher. I then painted the mechanicum symbols with Chaos Black/Celestra Grey and filled in the maker stamps with Zandri Dust.

Next up was the first round of weathering- applying paint chips. I created a 50/50 mix of Dryad Bark and Chaos Black and used a sponge to apply the chips randomly across the models. Once this was completed I applied a coat of Vallejo Gloss Varnish in preparation for shading.

At this point things started to go a little wrong! The plan, once the gloss varnish has dried, was to apply a mix of Agrax Earthshade/Nuln Oil gloss shade to the model. What is supposed to happen is that the gloss shade will retain more surface tension when applied to the gloss varnish and so the shade will settle in the recesses without leaving much residue on the large panels. I have used this technique successfully on other miniatures however this time the shade began to break up the gloss varnish and so didn't settle as expected.

I 'solved' the problem as best I could by drybrushing Averland Sunset over the model. Unfortunately this resulted in the models looking chalky (as can happen with drybrushing) however, I'm content with this as its a lot better compared to how the models looked after the shade.

I will continue to work on these models and will post the completed models next week.

17 June 2017

8th Edition Midnight Launch

Just a quick post to mark the release of 8th edition of Warhammer 40,000. My local Warhammer store here in Bath held a midnight opening and I popped down with the wife to pick up my new toys! 

I pre-ordered the full set.. the Dark Imperium starter box, Tactical Objective cards, both sets of dice (Wound trackers and Command die), new objective marker models, combat gauge and Index: Imperium 1. 

As I'm currently working hard to complete all my outstanding scenery for the beginning of September, the new models will have to join my 'to do list' in a lower position than I'd like (obviously I want to build and paint them today!). 

My plan is to  paint the Primaris Space Marines as Blood Angels and to help with improving the Blood Angels aesthetic I have ordered a couple of packs of Blood Angels Heads from ForgeWorld. I also have a few bits from the GW Blood Angels Upgrade Pack which I'll also add to the models. As for the Death Guard... I'm keen to paint them in a colour scheme close to the Horus Heresy era paint livery.

I've included a couple of photos taken from the launch after the break.

29 May 2017

Imperial City Gaming Mat

As part of the preparation for Nerd Day, this bad boy recently arrived.

Picked up from Element Games, its standard battle mat (in that it is effectively a huge mouse mat). The printed design is well detailed, of a muted colour pallete and follows the design of the GW Realm of Battle: Sector Imperialis.

Needless to say, it looks awesome! I can't wait to complete more pieces of terrain over the coming months to place on such a great mat.

22 May 2017

Imperial Bastion

In preparation for 'Nerd Day 2017' (see previous post), I first tackled an update to an Imperial Bastion. This piece of terrain was part of Great Scenery Rescue of 2016 and whilst it was already built and painted by the time it came into my possession, I wanted to test out some weathering techniques.

The model was repainted in Death World Forest with the details being picked out with standar base colours- Leadbelcher, Mephiston Red, Celestra Grey and Zandri Dust. I then applied the decals and sponged on a mix of Chaos Black and Rhinox Hide to simulate wear and tear. After this I sealed the model with gloss varnish. Next up I applied a wash of mixed black/burnt umber oil paint and allowed it to dry for about an hour. At that point, I used white spirit to diffuse the wash. The penultimate step involved the application of a watered down mix of Steel Legion Drab and various weathering powders. This can mainly be observed on the roof deck. Finally I airbrushed black on all the shell marks and applied a coat of satin varnish.

Next up will be some barrels! Fun times.

15 May 2017

This is new...

Warhammer Bath celebrated its 23rd birthday and were giving away freebies alongside purchases. Obviously it would have been rude not to support my local store! 

Whats odd is that I chose a Daemons 'start collecting' box as my purchase. I've always been a supporter of the 'good guys'- being a Space Marine player so this represents my first experimentation with the gods of Chaos.

Not only is this kit compatible with AoS and 40K, but the models are awesome. I'm very much looking forward to experimenting with new colours, schemes and techniques. 

All hail papa Nurgle

8 May 2017

Nerd Day 2017

So, in September 2017 my other half is out of town for the weekend and I have arranged to have 3 friends over for a weekend of war gaming. On the agenda is:

  • Warhammer Age of Sigmar
  • Warhammer 40k (8th ed!!!)
  • Shadow War: Armageddon
  • Blood Bowl
  • X-Wing
Needless to say, this is quite an ask for the time available. My aim is to run quick battles of Age of Sigmar and 40K and focus on SWA, Blood Bowl and X-Wing.

I am extremely excited about hosting such a day and in preparation I will spending the next few months preparing a suitably awesome gaming area (40k battle mat already on order!) and completing as many miniatures as possible.

What this means for readers of this blog is that posts will come thick and fast over the coming months! Lets do this!

1 May 2017

Stormcast Eternals: Work In Progress

A quick post covering a work in progress update on the 5 Stormcast Eternals I'm working on. At this point, these models have all been base coated, gloss varnished, shaded with GW gloss washes and then matted down slightly with a satin varnish. Oh, and the decals have been applied!

I'm continuing to follow the gloss varnish/gloss washes approach to shading models. I first tried this on my human Blood Bowl team and went a little over the top with the shade! On these models, I applied less shade and the result is better. so happy days!